Maria Grazia Chiuri için bir koleksiyon tasarlamak, periyoduyla kurduğu bağları incelemek manasına geliyor. Dior’un Sonbahar 2021 koleksiyonu, saha araştırması ve atölyeye dönüş ortasındaki ikili hareketle hayata geçiyor. Bu yaratıcı süreç, 1950’lerde Christian Dior tarafından yaratılan sembolik leopar desenli trençkotlar ile başlarken, ilham perilerinden ve sadık işbirlikçilerinden biri olan Mizza Bricard’ın favori aksesuarları ve kürkleri yine yorumlanıyor. Otobiyografisinde, Bricard hakkında yazan Dior, “Onun harikulâde karakterinin ve eşsiz zevkinin Norman atalarımdan miras aldığım ağırkanlı mizaç üzerinde kusursuz bir tesire sahip olacağını hissetim” demişti.
Bu kolektif ve özgür alanda, yeni istekler Pop bir hal etrafında ortaya çıkıyor. Parlak renkli, şeffaf ve simli kreasyonlar, moda ile hisleri betimleyen Elio Fiorucci’nin Pop estetiğini selamlıyor. Hem sahnede hem de gerçek hayatta tekilliğin ehemmiyetini vurgulayan K-Pop fenomeni, tamamı bayanlardan oluşan Blackpink’ten ilham alınan sesler, ritimler ve renkler fevkalâde bir canlılık yansıtılıyor. Sergiledikleri tarz ile en az müzik kadar güç kazanıyorlar.
Richard Hamilton’un İngiliz Pop usulü, Marco Lodola’nın adeta asidik olan Yeni Fütürizm biçimi ve Andy Warhol’un Paolo Uccello’nun Rönesans tablolarını ziyaret eden ‘psychedelia’ biçimi bu koleksiyonu bir Pop ideolojisiyle şekillendiriyor. Keşfetmek için bir tecrübe haline gelen moda, olasılıklar ile gelişiyor. Bu nedenle birden fazla kesim ve baskı içeren bir beyaz tişörtler, hayal gücünün özgürce dolaşabileceği bir alanı, ilham verici bir günlüğü sembolize ediyor.
Gelenekle deneysel diyaloglar. Siyah mutlak bir siyah. Parlak, baskılı ipek kadifeler üzerine işlenen ‘Millefleur’ motifleri. Batik ile bezenen danteller. Kocaman payetler ile işlenen işlemeler, ayna yüzeyli diskler ile süslenen yüzeyle… Maria Grazia Chiuri’nin temel öğeleri ve Dior ikonları yine yorumlanırken, ‘Bar’ ceketleri anoraklara, gömlek elbiseleri paltolara dönüşüyor. Stratejileri, kıyafetleri ve kimliği tekrar gözden geçirme muhtaçlığının farkında olarak tasarlanan ve tıpkı anda son derece enerjik, hiper-sofistike olan Pop ruhu ile güçlendirilen Dior Sonbahar 2021 koleksiyonu, derin bir hafiflik hissi ile donatılıyor.
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105
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106
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107
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108
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109
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110
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111
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112
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113
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114
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115
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116
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117
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118
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119
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120
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121
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122
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123
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125
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